HOW TO KEEP YOUR BUNNY OR GUINEA PIG COOL IN THE SUMMER!
By Fiona Murphy
The weather is FINALLY getting warmer, the sun is shining and you are just dying to get your bunny or guinea pig out on the grass for some fresh air and sun on their back - is there anything nicer than watching a rabbit binkying or a piggy popcorning out of doors?!
But with the fun of this, comes the worry - will they get sunburn or overheat? What about keeping them cool in their hutch or shed?
Read on for my hints and tips for a stress free summer with your small furry!!
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YOUR FUR BABY'S SET UP -
INDOOR PETS -
If your fur baby lives indoors, make sure they are away from the windows where the sun might beat in on them. Open the window in the room they are in as often as you can, or use an electric fan - this is quite safe as long as they can't reach the wires to chew them, and it isn't directed full on at them - it's best to direct it towards part of their cage or enclosure so they can sit in front of it if they like, or move out of it's way if they prefer. You can also place a frozen bottle of water in front of the fan to ensure it is blowing cold air across them. Add extra shade such as a blanket or towel, and things to hide in the shade in like a cardboard box or tunnel.
OUTDOOR PETS -
Place their hutch or run in a shaded area of the garden, being mindful of where the sun will move to next - you may need to keep them in a spot that is permanently shady or keep moving it during the day. A large hutch with a run attached is a great option for outdoor rabbits or guinea pigs, as they can escape into the hutch if they want to cool down - make sure the hutch itself is shaded though with a parasol, or similar as they can get like ovens - check regularly to make sure it isn't too hot! Again, give plenty of shade options, pinning a blanket over the run with pegs, or using a run cover, making it as cool as possible. If you are concerned it is too hot for them, only leave them out for a short while, maybe 15-20 minutes in a shaded area, and it is best for them to be out first thing in the morning / later in the evening when it is cooler and then keep them in the cool of the house the rest of the day. If your rabbit or guinea pig normally live outdoors, it might be worth considering moving them indoors while it is hot so that you can keep an eye on their temperature.
Wild bunnies keep cool in their burrows when it is hot, so if your bun has a spot they can dig in, you'll probably find they dig a nice hole to lie down in :) You can also provide a litter tray or large plastic box filled with soil for them to do the same in, or move their run onto a patch of earth. You can dampen the soil a little if you like. You can also use a battery operated fan, you can buy ones which attach to the bars of the cage or run
THE DANGER OF PLASTIC AND SMALL WOODEN HUTS IN THE HEAT
These should not be used outdoors in a run or hutch in the summer - they can be 10 degrees or more actually hotter than the temperature outside as they just trap the heat! Rabbits and guinea pigs may hide in these if nervous, and can die of heat exhaustion in just a short period of time. Parasols or tented blankets that aren't sitting right on top of them so the air can move, are a better option. Be wary of plastic huts indoors too when it is hot for the same reason.
SOME ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT -
Your fur baby will appreciate one of these cool pads or pods - the ones below are self cooling, when your pet lies on them they cool down. You can also buy ones that you can place in the freezer before use.
You can also freeze a small bottle of water (or re use a fizzy drinks bottle by filing with cold tap water) pop it in a sock or a pillow case or wrap it in a tea towel and place in your rabbit or guinea pig's cage so they can lie against it to cool down if they like. A ceramic or marble tile or even a marble chopping board that you have cooled in the fridge or freezer also does the job! These stay cool even in the heat.
HINTS AND TIPS FOR KEEPING THEM COOL
1. KEEP YOUR FUR BABY HYDRATED
The major dangers of time in the sun are dehydration and heat stroke which can lead to death. Give your pet both a water bottle and a bowl as they may choose to drink more from one or the other or both! (Remember on an average day a rabbit can drink 100-150mls per Kg of body weight, and that's not on a hot day!) Wet any vegetables with cold water to help keep them hydrated. You can also purchase neoprene bottle covers which keep your rabbit or guinea pig's bottle ice free in winter, but will also help keep it cool in summer. You can add ice to the water you are giving your rabbit in advance and give it to them once it has melted, but don't give them the ice cubes or frozen fruit or vegetables to eat as they can cause life threatening intestinal problems.
2. KEEP THEIR FUR SHORT
Giving long haired rabbits or guinea pigs a hair cut coming into the summer months will keep them cooler
3. SUNCREAM
Rabbits and guinea pigs don't really need sun cream - it is believed even white ones aren't as prone to heat stroke or skin cancer as white cats. They are also likely to lick it off, so if you think your pet needs it, consult your vet before using it and do get a pet safe one. Shade is really a safer and more effective alternative.
HEALTH CONCERNS -
OVERHEATING
If your pet shows signs of being too hot such as breathing fast, tipping their head up to breathe, wet nose, or being lethargic, get them out of the sun immediately. You can cool them down by spraying water on their paws, or their ears. Wrap them in a wet cold towel and rush them to the vet if you are concerned, especially if they are refusing to eat or drink, as they can die very quickly from the heat, sadly.
BE WARY OF FLY STRIKE
Fly strike in bunnies and guinea pigs is more rampant in the summer. It can be life threatening within hours. It is a very distressing condition, where flies are attracted to the animal’s odour, or urine or poop sitting on their fur or in their surroundings, and then lays eggs on the animal itself, usually around their bottom. The fly eggs turn into maggots within hours and the maggots start to feed on the pet's flesh. The best cure is to prevent it – Check your pet twice daily for signs of maggots around their bottom, and keep an eye for flies congregating near their living area. Change litter trays and soiled bedding every day, and keep their environment clean to avoid attracting flies. Use fly strips around their set up. If they live outdoors, you could grow natural fly repellent herbs near their hutch or shed - rosemary, peppermint, basil and green oregano.
Pets with wounds are more susceptible to fly strike, so keep wounds clean and dry as flies are attracted to smell of blood. If your rabbit is inclined to have 'poopy bum' (where the poop is stuck to their fur), or regularly wet fur, be aware that these issues are not normal for rabbits - they should always have clean and dry fur underneath if they are healthy and their diet is right, and that this will also attract flies, so visit the vet asap to sort out the issue before your bunny is affected by fly strike also.
The first symptoms of flystrike can be very similar to other diseases - not eating, sitting miserably hunched over, digging unusually (may be digging away the pain), quiet and lethargic- they can quickly go into shock leading to collapse and death. There may also be a strong smell coming form their hutch or cage. If you spot maggots, rush your pet to the vet immediately, as every hour causes more damage. Phone them on the way so that they can see you straight away as this is an emergency.
You may also want to apply a topical product preventative product - Beaphar does one which is readily available and lasts 3 months
I hope you have found this useful, and you and your fur baby enjoy the good weather together!!
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